Mossy Tank
Shrimp & Nano Tanks

Best Plants for Shrimp Tanks: Safe Low-Tech Picks

Published 3 June 2026

Plants and shrimp are natural partners. In a planted shrimp tank, live plants provide biofilm on every surface (a primary food source), shelter during moulting, and hiding places for vulnerable shrimplets. The tank is more stable, the shrimp are more active, and the whole setup looks considerably better than a bare-bottom container.

The plants below are all suitable for low-tech shrimp setups: no CO2, low-to-moderate light, safe for shrimp, and proven in the hobby.

What shrimp actually need from plants

Biofilm surfaces: Shrimp graze constantly on biofilm — the microscopic layer of bacteria, algae, and organic matter that colonises every surface in a healthy tank. Plants with textured or high-surface-area leaves (mosses, java fern) accumulate more biofilm than smooth-leaved plants and are more productive grazing grounds.

Cover for moulting: Shrimp moult regularly as they grow. During and immediately after a moult they’re soft, vulnerable, and stressed. Dense plant growth gives them places to hide. Without cover, newly-moulted shrimp are easy targets for even the most peaceful tank mates.

Refuge for shrimplets: Baby shrimp are 1–2mm when they hatch. They need dense, safe areas to graze without competition. Java moss and other fine-textured plants are perfect nursery environments.

No copper: This is a safety consideration rather than a plant choice — some aquatic plants sold as “aquatic” are actually terrestrial plants dipped in copper-based preservatives. Buy from reputable planted tank suppliers, not general pet stores that may sell mislabelled plants.

Best plants for shrimp tanks

Java moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri)

The single best plant for a shrimp tank, full stop. Java moss creates a dense, soft surface covered in biofilm — shrimp spend hours grazing through it. Shrimplets hide in it. Breeding females rest in it. It grows in virtually any light level, attaches to any surface, and requires no special substrate or fertilisation.

Tie it to driftwood, stones, or mesh for the best results. Loose java moss floating in the tank also works but looks less intentional.

Christmas moss (Vesicularia montagnei)

Similar to java moss but with a distinctive horizontal frond structure that looks like a fir tree from the side. Provides the same biofilm benefit as java moss with a more refined appearance. Slightly more light-tolerant than java moss.

Excellent for covering driftwood in a shrimp display tank.

Flame moss (Taxiphyllum sp. ‘Flame’)

Grows in an upward-spiralling pattern, creating a distinctive vertical texture. Grows slower than java moss but looks striking. The vertical growth habit means it doesn’t form a dense mat like java moss — good for variety, not for mass shrimp grazing.

Anubias (Anubias nana and varieties)

The broad leaves of anubias collect biofilm and create resting surfaces for shrimp. Nana and nana ‘petite’ are the best sizes for shrimp tanks — small enough to not dominate a nano setup, large enough to provide meaningful cover.

Shrimp are frequently seen perched on anubias leaves, grazing the biofilm from the surface. A piece of driftwood with anubias nana attached, surrounded by java moss, is a classic shrimp tank layout.

Java fern (Microsorum pteropus)

Java fern provides good cover and accumulates biofilm on its textured leaves. The adventitious plantlets that develop on older leaves also provide additional surface area for grazing.

Java fern’s main role in a shrimp tank is cover and visual structure rather than primary grazing surface — java moss is much more productive for shrimp. Use both.

Bucephalandra (Bucephalandra species)

Bucephalandra is a slow-growing rheophyte (river plant) that grows attached to hardscape. The thick, heavily-textured leaves collect significant biofilm and shrimp graze them extensively. Beautiful in a shrimp tank, and one of the few plants where the leaf surface itself is a primary attraction.

Available in dozens of varieties with different leaf shapes and colours. More expensive than java fern or anubias, but worthwhile for a display shrimp tank.

Floating plants

Frogbit and salvinia are excellent floating plants for shrimp tanks. They absorb nutrients from the water column, shading the lower tank slightly (reducing algae) and stabilising water chemistry. The dangling roots of frogbit also become colonised with biofilm.

Note: floating plants in shrimp tanks should cover 30–40% of the surface maximum. Shrimp don’t breathe air, but good gas exchange is still important for oxygen.

Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)

Fast-growing stem plant that can be left floating or loosely planted. Hornwort grows rapidly, absorbs nutrients aggressively (helping with water quality in a new tank), and provides significant surface area. Shrimp graze the fine, needle-like leaves constantly.

One watch-out: hornwort drops needles as it adapts to a new environment. This settles after a couple of weeks but can be messy initially.

Plants to avoid in shrimp tanks

Anything treated with pesticides or preservatives: Plants grown for the ornamental pond or terrarium trade may be treated with chemicals that are lethal to shrimp. Buy from aquarium-specific suppliers. If you’re unsure about a plant, quarantine it in a bucket with a sacrificial snail or two before adding to a shrimp tank.

Very fine carpeting plants (HC Cuba, glossostigma): These require CO2 and high light, don’t suit low-tech setups, and the dense carpet can trap debris that degrades water quality in a shrimp tank.

Hygrophila polysperma in some regions: Invasive in some parts of the world (restricted in the US and EU). Check local regulations before purchasing any aquatic plant.

Planting layout for a shrimp tank

A simple, effective layout for a 30–40L shrimp tank:

This provides biofilm grazing surfaces at every level, plenty of cover, and good visual depth — without any CO2 or complex fertilisation.

For the full shrimp care guide, see our cherry shrimp care guide.